giovedì 2 dicembre 2010


- Reefs are only for the advanced surfer. Although points and sandbanks surely also offer some challenging waves, they usually provide a good ride for everyone
-Paddle hard in big or hollow waves. Always put in a couple of extra strokes, even when you have caughtthe wave
-Do not hesitate in large or hollow waves
-Do not panic underwater. This uses up important energy
-Learn to control your fears. Develop your own bag of psycho tricks
-In big wave do not take the first wave of a set. If you then end up not catching it, all the following waves will break on your head
-Take a good long look at the surfing spot: currents, rocks, shallows, channels, the take-off area, boomer-sets ctc..
-Do not panic if your leash breaks. Never try to swing against the current. Always swim back in with the white water and not through the channel
-Use lulls (pause between sets) to get out to the line-up
-Always duck-dive, never bail out
-The secret for all manoeuvres is speed
-Getting tubes is the ultimat thrill. Learn to let the tube catch up with you. Keep your eyes open in the tube
-Get out of the water while you still have enough strength left in you
-Obey the unwriten rules of surfing. The surfer on the inside always has the right of way
-"Do not drop-in!" and "Respect the locals!"
The most important tip however is: "Get out there and have fun!"

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